Heslington Hall Gardens
Hidden behind Heslington Hall is the most amazing surprise - an 18th century Topiary Garden, with a two storey Gazebo and an Orangery. The garden is freely open to the public, but before you visit, do read FFH member Charles Patmore's fascinating article about its origins, design and historical context - Download it HERE
Prospect of Heslington Hall from the slopes of Heslington Hill by Jan Baptiste Bouttats. 1720s. Private Collection.
The Hall is seen from the north and the line of overgrown trees are probably the boundary to the topiary garden
You can see the gazebo with its reflecting pool and another pool. To the left is the Hesketh Hospital Almshouses.
The Hall is seen from the north and the line of overgrown trees are probably the boundary to the topiary garden
You can see the gazebo with its reflecting pool and another pool. To the left is the Hesketh Hospital Almshouses.
A History of Heslington Hall and its Owners
(For pictures with no caption, hold your mouse over the image)
Heslington Hall is now the administrative centre of the University of York. The original Hall was built in the 16th century around a large three-sided courtyard. This layout was retained when the Hall was largely reconstructed in the mid-19th century in a Victorian-Elizabethan style.
The Hall was further modified in the early 20th century, returning some parts to its original design. Significant internal alterations were made in the 1960s, when the Hall became the administrative centre of the University.
Much of the 18th century Dutch-style garden remains, although the large topiarised yews have grown-out somewhat from their original geometric design.
The land on which the Hall was built had been confiscated from St Leonard’s Hospital after Henry VIII closed down the Monasteries. The Victoria County History says the hospital’s property was valued at £26. It is not known if there was already a house on the site, but it is very possible. In 1520, the land was let to William Mennell and there are references to a tithe barn on the field adjacent to the church.
The Hall was built around 1568 on the lands let by the Crown to Sir Thomas Eynns (sometimes spelt Eymes). In 1567, Eynns entered into a 21 year lease of the Manor and Lands of Heslington at an annual rent of £10, an arrangement which the History of Parliament Online says had been promised to him by Queen Mary (r.1553-58).
Thomas Eynns was from a Shropshire family and was Secretary and Keeper of the Signet to the Council in the North from 1550 until his death in 1578. His salary was £33 6s.8d. and he was described as ‘pious and honest, though subject to infirmities as we are all that carry flesh’. The Council in the North was originally set up by Richard III to control the northern part of the kingdom. It was based at King's Manor after Henry VIII expelled the Abbot of St Mary's Abbey from his palace.
As well as holding a powerful position on the Council in the North, Eynns was also a member of Elizabeth's Ecclesiastical Commission at York. Elizabeth faced her most serious revolt during his period of office, The Revolt of the Northern Earls of 1569 (often called The Rising of the North) and it is likely that Thomas Eynns was involved in efforts to put it down. The revolt was led by Charles Neville, 6th Earl of Westmorland, and Thomas Percy, 7th Earl of Northumberland, and was an attempt to depose the Protestant Queen Elizabeth with the Catholic Mary Queen of Scots. However, the revolt was quickly quashed by the forces led by the Earl of Sussex and the rebel Earls fled to Scotland. Thomas Percy was captured and executed in 1572.
The Hall was further modified in the early 20th century, returning some parts to its original design. Significant internal alterations were made in the 1960s, when the Hall became the administrative centre of the University.
Much of the 18th century Dutch-style garden remains, although the large topiarised yews have grown-out somewhat from their original geometric design.
The land on which the Hall was built had been confiscated from St Leonard’s Hospital after Henry VIII closed down the Monasteries. The Victoria County History says the hospital’s property was valued at £26. It is not known if there was already a house on the site, but it is very possible. In 1520, the land was let to William Mennell and there are references to a tithe barn on the field adjacent to the church.
The Hall was built around 1568 on the lands let by the Crown to Sir Thomas Eynns (sometimes spelt Eymes). In 1567, Eynns entered into a 21 year lease of the Manor and Lands of Heslington at an annual rent of £10, an arrangement which the History of Parliament Online says had been promised to him by Queen Mary (r.1553-58).
Thomas Eynns was from a Shropshire family and was Secretary and Keeper of the Signet to the Council in the North from 1550 until his death in 1578. His salary was £33 6s.8d. and he was described as ‘pious and honest, though subject to infirmities as we are all that carry flesh’. The Council in the North was originally set up by Richard III to control the northern part of the kingdom. It was based at King's Manor after Henry VIII expelled the Abbot of St Mary's Abbey from his palace.
As well as holding a powerful position on the Council in the North, Eynns was also a member of Elizabeth's Ecclesiastical Commission at York. Elizabeth faced her most serious revolt during his period of office, The Revolt of the Northern Earls of 1569 (often called The Rising of the North) and it is likely that Thomas Eynns was involved in efforts to put it down. The revolt was led by Charles Neville, 6th Earl of Westmorland, and Thomas Percy, 7th Earl of Northumberland, and was an attempt to depose the Protestant Queen Elizabeth with the Catholic Mary Queen of Scots. However, the revolt was quickly quashed by the forces led by the Earl of Sussex and the rebel Earls fled to Scotland. Thomas Percy was captured and executed in 1572.
A drawing of the Hall by John Harper in 1800 (right) shows the Hall somewhat like it is today, with a pillared and pedimented central doorway and two large bow-fronted windows extending through the full height of the house in the most fashionable Tudor style. Although major reconstruction was undertaken in the 1850s, the east front is not dissimilar to the earlier building, the main exception being that the buildings on each side of the courtyard are larger. However, the back of the building is much altered, with new rooms filling the area between the stair towers.
Unfortunately, a painting of Thomas Eynns has yet to be discovered, but he has a memorial in York Minster. After his widow’s death, the Manor was sold in 1584 to Francis Neville. It later passed to Sir Richard Lewkenor and then to Thomas Wendy and Adrian Staughton.
In 1601, the Manor was granted to trustees, who passed it to Thomas Hesketh MP (1548-1605). His family were significant land owners in Lancashire and he was educated at Cambridge. In 1598 he was appointed as one of the Justices in the Council in the North, but he did not live long to enjoy living at the Hall and died on 15 Oct. 1605. He was buried in Westminster Abbey, where his wife erected a monument. An indenture of 5 November 1603 reserved a life interest in his lands to his wife, Juliana. She founded a hospital (almshouse) for estate workers in Heslington in Thomas’s memory (the hospital was probably on the site of the University's Chemistry Buildings - read more HERE) and two years after Thomas Hesketh’s death she married Sir Ranulphe Crewe. Juliana was also buried in Westminster Abbey, on 12th August 1629, and the estate then passed to Thomas Hesketh’s brother Cuthbert, whose descendants lived at Heslington until the failure of the male line in 1693.
During the Civil War, the Manor was used by Sir Thomas Fairfax as his headquarters for the parliamentary army during the Siege of York. In May 1644, a bridge of boats was built across the Ouse at Fulford, linking the Earl of Leven's Scottish army with Fairfax’s forces, and another boat-bridge was constructed at Clifton. After some fighting and bombarding the city with cannon fire, the Royalist forces were routed from churches, windmills and domestic buildings outside the walls, the parliamentary army heavily defeated Prince Rupert at the battle of Marston Moor on 2nd July. Delicate negotiations followed, and the city surrendered on very generous terms on 16th July.
(You can read more about the Siege of York HERE)
The Hall passed to Hesketh’s daughters; Anne, who had married James Yarburgh in 1692, and her sister, Mary, who in 1693 married Fairfax Norcliffe. This began the long association with the Yarburgh family from Lincolnshire, whose main interests seems to have revolved around horses. The family did not significantly alter the house, but it was during this 18th century period of ownership that the Hall’s Dutch-style garden was created, with large yews clipped into geometrical shapes like globes, columns, cones and pyramids. The two-storey gazebo and the adjacent walled garden and orangery also date from this time. [you can read an excellent article about the gardens by FFH member, Charles Patmore HERE]
In 1793, when Thomas Norcliffe Dalton, great-grandson of Mary and Fairfax Norcliffe, sold his share to Henry Yarburgh. Henry Yarburgh paid for the rebuilding of the Hesketh Hospital on a new site in 1795, creating the terrace of houses which can still be seen in Main Street, pictured below. (hold mouse on image to read caption)
Unfortunately, a painting of Thomas Eynns has yet to be discovered, but he has a memorial in York Minster. After his widow’s death, the Manor was sold in 1584 to Francis Neville. It later passed to Sir Richard Lewkenor and then to Thomas Wendy and Adrian Staughton.
In 1601, the Manor was granted to trustees, who passed it to Thomas Hesketh MP (1548-1605). His family were significant land owners in Lancashire and he was educated at Cambridge. In 1598 he was appointed as one of the Justices in the Council in the North, but he did not live long to enjoy living at the Hall and died on 15 Oct. 1605. He was buried in Westminster Abbey, where his wife erected a monument. An indenture of 5 November 1603 reserved a life interest in his lands to his wife, Juliana. She founded a hospital (almshouse) for estate workers in Heslington in Thomas’s memory (the hospital was probably on the site of the University's Chemistry Buildings - read more HERE) and two years after Thomas Hesketh’s death she married Sir Ranulphe Crewe. Juliana was also buried in Westminster Abbey, on 12th August 1629, and the estate then passed to Thomas Hesketh’s brother Cuthbert, whose descendants lived at Heslington until the failure of the male line in 1693.
During the Civil War, the Manor was used by Sir Thomas Fairfax as his headquarters for the parliamentary army during the Siege of York. In May 1644, a bridge of boats was built across the Ouse at Fulford, linking the Earl of Leven's Scottish army with Fairfax’s forces, and another boat-bridge was constructed at Clifton. After some fighting and bombarding the city with cannon fire, the Royalist forces were routed from churches, windmills and domestic buildings outside the walls, the parliamentary army heavily defeated Prince Rupert at the battle of Marston Moor on 2nd July. Delicate negotiations followed, and the city surrendered on very generous terms on 16th July.
(You can read more about the Siege of York HERE)
The Hall passed to Hesketh’s daughters; Anne, who had married James Yarburgh in 1692, and her sister, Mary, who in 1693 married Fairfax Norcliffe. This began the long association with the Yarburgh family from Lincolnshire, whose main interests seems to have revolved around horses. The family did not significantly alter the house, but it was during this 18th century period of ownership that the Hall’s Dutch-style garden was created, with large yews clipped into geometrical shapes like globes, columns, cones and pyramids. The two-storey gazebo and the adjacent walled garden and orangery also date from this time. [you can read an excellent article about the gardens by FFH member, Charles Patmore HERE]
In 1793, when Thomas Norcliffe Dalton, great-grandson of Mary and Fairfax Norcliffe, sold his share to Henry Yarburgh. Henry Yarburgh paid for the rebuilding of the Hesketh Hospital on a new site in 1795, creating the terrace of houses which can still be seen in Main Street, pictured below. (hold mouse on image to read caption)
Heslington Hall remained in the Yarburgh family until the death of Nicholas Yarburgh in 1852, when it passed to his nephew Yarburgh Greame of Sewerby Hall, Bridlington, where he had undertaken major reconstruction works. He was a graduate of Trinity Hall, Cambridge, a Deputy Lieutenant of Yorkshire an served as High Sheriff in 1848-49. He was unmarried and already in his late 60s, when he inherited the Hall and adopted the surname Yarburgh.
In 1854 he commissioned architect Philip Charles Hardwick to rebuild the Hall. Recent research by York MA Student, Katharine Bould, suggests that Hardwick was working to designs by Edward Blore, who was well known for his work on Elizabethan country houses, Including Escrick Park, and designing Thicket Priory in the Victorian/Elizabethan style. When completed, the Hall had 109 rooms and cost some £15,000 (£2.5m today). This vast sum was met partly from revenue from the Sewerby Hall Estate but mainly from the increased income generated by the Heslington Estate, which increased significantly after Enclosure in 1854. (you can see the Heslington Enclosure map HERE)
The major works retained the general appearance of the original house frontage, but the smooth uniformity of the Victorian brickwork and masonry has diminished its character to the 21st century viewer. The tall bow-fronted windows are very similar to those in the original building, and may have been reconstructed using some of the original masonry. Inside, some of the dramatic ceilings of the original building were retained and incorporated into remodelled rooms. More extensive changes were made to the rear of the Hall, where new rooms infilled the open ground between the stair towers, to which an additional storey and tall pinnacles were added. A new wing was built next to Main Street, and long two storey wings were built on either side of the large front courtyard.
We are grateful to Katharine Bould for allowing her investigation into the Victorian restoration of the Elizabethan Hall to be available to download HERE. Her interesting MA thesis includes room by room descriptions of the changes and architect's drawings which show the extent of demolition and new construction.
A large lake was created adjacent to the formal gardens, and a long formal pond constructed in front of the gazebo. In the 1960s, the lake was incorporated into a larger system of ponds, designed to attenuate rainwater run-off when the University was built.
Yarburgh Greame was succeeded by his nephew George John Lloyd, who followed the family tradition and assumed the surname Yarburgh. In 1875 the Manor passed to his daughter Mary and her husband George William Bateson, who became the 2nd Baron Deramore in 1890, pictured right. Their two sons, Robert Wilfred de Yarburgh-Bateson (3rd Baron Deramore) (1865–1936) and George Nicholas de Yarburgh-Bateson (4th Baron Deramore) (1870–1943), occupied the Hall after him.
In 1903, the prominent York Architect, Walter Brierley, was commissioned to recreate elements of its Tudor character. The Minstrel’s Gallery was removed to enlarge the Great Hall and oak from the beams of St Crux in Pavement was used to create wainscoting. The fireplace, with its boiled leather decoration was removed, but the Great Hall retained its magnificent 16th century pendant ceiling, and the wood panelling at the north end.
Externally, the pinnacles were removed from the staircase towers to restore them to their original square shape and black roof slates replaced by hand-made tiles. Robert Deramore continued the tradition of building Almshouses in the village, erecting the bungalows at the south end of Main Street in 1903 in memory of his wife, Lucy. In 1907 Robert married Blanche Violet Saltmarsh, known as Lady Violet Deramore. She became a Trustee of York Hospital and in 1909 she joined the Red Cross. During the Great War, she oversaw the use of Heslington Hall as a convalescent home for wounded soldiers.
Staff at the Hall listed on the 1911 Census, included the butler, a governess, house boys and girls, kitchen and serving staff and gardeners, and those working in the stables. Home Farm, now part of the University, was the main supplier of food and provisions to the Hall. Most other Heslington farms were owned by the Deramore estate, with the farmers on long-term tenancies.
The semi-feudal nature of the village before the Great War is demonstrated by a piece in Donald Ward’s charming booklet ‘Heslington Memories’ where he recalls his grandfather saying “All tenant farmers were expected to be members of the East Riding Yeomanry, but if too old or ill, his son or another family member was expected to join. One farmer lost his tenancy when his son refused to join. Sabre drill was held in the stables courtyard at the Hall and an annual inspection was held on Harrogate Stray”.
We are grateful to Edward Royle, Professor Emeritus in history at the University of York, for allowing his article on the Transformation of the Hall and Heslington in the 1850s, to be made available for readers to download HERE. The article was written for the 2004 Annual Report of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society.
In 1854 he commissioned architect Philip Charles Hardwick to rebuild the Hall. Recent research by York MA Student, Katharine Bould, suggests that Hardwick was working to designs by Edward Blore, who was well known for his work on Elizabethan country houses, Including Escrick Park, and designing Thicket Priory in the Victorian/Elizabethan style. When completed, the Hall had 109 rooms and cost some £15,000 (£2.5m today). This vast sum was met partly from revenue from the Sewerby Hall Estate but mainly from the increased income generated by the Heslington Estate, which increased significantly after Enclosure in 1854. (you can see the Heslington Enclosure map HERE)
The major works retained the general appearance of the original house frontage, but the smooth uniformity of the Victorian brickwork and masonry has diminished its character to the 21st century viewer. The tall bow-fronted windows are very similar to those in the original building, and may have been reconstructed using some of the original masonry. Inside, some of the dramatic ceilings of the original building were retained and incorporated into remodelled rooms. More extensive changes were made to the rear of the Hall, where new rooms infilled the open ground between the stair towers, to which an additional storey and tall pinnacles were added. A new wing was built next to Main Street, and long two storey wings were built on either side of the large front courtyard.
We are grateful to Katharine Bould for allowing her investigation into the Victorian restoration of the Elizabethan Hall to be available to download HERE. Her interesting MA thesis includes room by room descriptions of the changes and architect's drawings which show the extent of demolition and new construction.
A large lake was created adjacent to the formal gardens, and a long formal pond constructed in front of the gazebo. In the 1960s, the lake was incorporated into a larger system of ponds, designed to attenuate rainwater run-off when the University was built.
Yarburgh Greame was succeeded by his nephew George John Lloyd, who followed the family tradition and assumed the surname Yarburgh. In 1875 the Manor passed to his daughter Mary and her husband George William Bateson, who became the 2nd Baron Deramore in 1890, pictured right. Their two sons, Robert Wilfred de Yarburgh-Bateson (3rd Baron Deramore) (1865–1936) and George Nicholas de Yarburgh-Bateson (4th Baron Deramore) (1870–1943), occupied the Hall after him.
In 1903, the prominent York Architect, Walter Brierley, was commissioned to recreate elements of its Tudor character. The Minstrel’s Gallery was removed to enlarge the Great Hall and oak from the beams of St Crux in Pavement was used to create wainscoting. The fireplace, with its boiled leather decoration was removed, but the Great Hall retained its magnificent 16th century pendant ceiling, and the wood panelling at the north end.
Externally, the pinnacles were removed from the staircase towers to restore them to their original square shape and black roof slates replaced by hand-made tiles. Robert Deramore continued the tradition of building Almshouses in the village, erecting the bungalows at the south end of Main Street in 1903 in memory of his wife, Lucy. In 1907 Robert married Blanche Violet Saltmarsh, known as Lady Violet Deramore. She became a Trustee of York Hospital and in 1909 she joined the Red Cross. During the Great War, she oversaw the use of Heslington Hall as a convalescent home for wounded soldiers.
Staff at the Hall listed on the 1911 Census, included the butler, a governess, house boys and girls, kitchen and serving staff and gardeners, and those working in the stables. Home Farm, now part of the University, was the main supplier of food and provisions to the Hall. Most other Heslington farms were owned by the Deramore estate, with the farmers on long-term tenancies.
The semi-feudal nature of the village before the Great War is demonstrated by a piece in Donald Ward’s charming booklet ‘Heslington Memories’ where he recalls his grandfather saying “All tenant farmers were expected to be members of the East Riding Yeomanry, but if too old or ill, his son or another family member was expected to join. One farmer lost his tenancy when his son refused to join. Sabre drill was held in the stables courtyard at the Hall and an annual inspection was held on Harrogate Stray”.
We are grateful to Edward Royle, Professor Emeritus in history at the University of York, for allowing his article on the Transformation of the Hall and Heslington in the 1850s, to be made available for readers to download HERE. The article was written for the 2004 Annual Report of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society.
The Manor had a strong influence on the village school, first built in 1795 but replaced in 1856 at the expense of Alicia Lloyd, the sister of the Lord of the Manor. Alicia Lloyd also paid for the medieval church to be replaced retaining only its bell. (You can read more about Heslington's churches HERE)
The school Log Book records Lady Lilla de Yarburgh Bateson, regularly inspecting and signing the registers, the headteacher noting that she found them “quite correct”. In May 1914 she bought the school a new piano with the proceeds of entertainments promoted by her at the Hall during Easter week. The harmonium she had previously provided, was moved to the infants’ room. The Log Book also records Lord Deramore buying a map ‘illustrating the journeys of St Paul’, perhaps indicating how education of village children was viewed by the local gentry.
The Hall was requisitioned during the Second World War and used as Headquaters of No.4 Group Bomber Command, controlling the operation of airbases in the area. The family moved out and never returned.
The Hall stood empty after the war, and in 1956 it was sold to the Joseph Rowntree Social Service Trust, with plans for a Folk Park. However this imaginative concept was unsuccessful and in 1962 the Hall and its Estate was acquired for the new University of York.
Extensive interior alterations were made when Sir Bernard Feilden designed the conversion of the Hall into the University administrative headquarters, but the main features and character remain. In 1955 the Hall was given Grade II* listed building status.
The gardens were neglected through the middle of the 20th century and the yews lost much of their previous shape. However, the University now maintain them in in keeping with their 17th century concept.
Click HERE to download a copy of a 1958 booklet by the former Curator of Castle Museum, Michael Kirkby: 'Heslington Hall and its Owners during the Past Four Centuries. The original typed booklet includes detailed family trees and can be seen at the Borthwick Institute.
In 2012, paintings, furniture and other items from the Hall dating back to the 17th century, were sold at auction by Bonhams, on the instruction of James Sturton, whose mother was a descendant of the Yarburgh family. Part of the auction catalogue can be downloaded HERE.
You can read a short article about the Hall on the Borthwick Institute website HERE and the summary of Yarburgh family papers and other Heslington Hall Estate records held by the Borthwick Institute HERE
Hold your mouse over the image to read the captions on these images
The school Log Book records Lady Lilla de Yarburgh Bateson, regularly inspecting and signing the registers, the headteacher noting that she found them “quite correct”. In May 1914 she bought the school a new piano with the proceeds of entertainments promoted by her at the Hall during Easter week. The harmonium she had previously provided, was moved to the infants’ room. The Log Book also records Lord Deramore buying a map ‘illustrating the journeys of St Paul’, perhaps indicating how education of village children was viewed by the local gentry.
The Hall was requisitioned during the Second World War and used as Headquaters of No.4 Group Bomber Command, controlling the operation of airbases in the area. The family moved out and never returned.
The Hall stood empty after the war, and in 1956 it was sold to the Joseph Rowntree Social Service Trust, with plans for a Folk Park. However this imaginative concept was unsuccessful and in 1962 the Hall and its Estate was acquired for the new University of York.
Extensive interior alterations were made when Sir Bernard Feilden designed the conversion of the Hall into the University administrative headquarters, but the main features and character remain. In 1955 the Hall was given Grade II* listed building status.
The gardens were neglected through the middle of the 20th century and the yews lost much of their previous shape. However, the University now maintain them in in keeping with their 17th century concept.
Click HERE to download a copy of a 1958 booklet by the former Curator of Castle Museum, Michael Kirkby: 'Heslington Hall and its Owners during the Past Four Centuries. The original typed booklet includes detailed family trees and can be seen at the Borthwick Institute.
In 2012, paintings, furniture and other items from the Hall dating back to the 17th century, were sold at auction by Bonhams, on the instruction of James Sturton, whose mother was a descendant of the Yarburgh family. Part of the auction catalogue can be downloaded HERE.
You can read a short article about the Hall on the Borthwick Institute website HERE and the summary of Yarburgh family papers and other Heslington Hall Estate records held by the Borthwick Institute HERE
Hold your mouse over the image to read the captions on these images